Argyll Forest Park
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-> Argyll Forest ParkThe Argyll Forest Park stretches from the western shores of Loch Lomond south as far as Holy Loch, providing the most grandiose scenery on the peninsula. The park includes the Arrochar Alps, north of Glen Croe and Glen Kinglas, whose Munros offer some of the best climbing in Argyll: Ben Ime (3318ft) is the tallest of the range, and Ben Arthur or "The Cobbler" (2891ft) easily the most distinctive. All are for experienced walkers only. At the other end of the scale, there are several gentle forest walks clearly laid out by the Forestry Commission and helpful leaflets available from tourist offices.
Approaching from Glasgow along the A82, followed by the A83, you enter the park from ARROCHAR, at the head of Loch Long. The village itself is ordinary enough, but the setting is dramatic, and it makes a convenient base for exploring the northern section of the park. There's a train station a mile or so east, just off the A83 to Tarbet, and numerous hotels and B&Bs; try the very friendly Lochside Guest House on the main road (tel 01301/702467, lochsidegh@aol.com; £40-50), or the Fascadail (tel 01301/702344, 40-50), a guest house with a glorious garden, situated a little to the south on the quieter A814 to Garelochhead. Two miles west of Arrochar at ARDGARTAN is a well-maintained lochside Forestry Commission campsite (tel 01301/702293, March-Oct), an SYHA hostel (tel 01301/702362, www.syha.org.uk; April-Nov) and, a little further down the road, a tourist office (daily: July & Aug 10am-6pm; April-June, Sept & Oct 10am-5pm; tel 01301/702432), which doubles as a forestry office and has occasional organized walks. There are also waymarked walks starting from the tourist office, and a bike rental place called South Park (tel 01301/702288).
Approaching Cowal from the east, you're forced to climb Glen Croe, a strategic hill pass whose saddle is called Rest-and-be-Thankful, for obvious reasons. From here, continue along the A83 down the grand Highland sweep of Glen Kinglas to CAIRNDOW, at the head of Loch Fyne. A mile or so around the head of the loch on the main road is the Loch Fyne Oyster Bar (tel 01499/600264, www.loch-fyne.com), which sells more oysters than anywhere else in the country, plus lots of other fish and seafood treats. You can easily assemble a gourmet picnic here or stock up on provisions for the week, and the moderately expensive restaurant is excellent, though booking is advisable at busy times. Inveraray is only six miles along the western shores of Loch Fyne on the A83.
To delve further into Cowal, take the A815 southwest to Strachur before heading inland to Loch Eck, an exceptionally narrow freshwater loch, squeezed between steeply banked woods, is a favourite spot for trout fishing. At the loch's southern tip are the beautifully laid-out Benmore Botanic Gardens (March-Oct daily 9.30am-6pm; £3), an offshoot of Edinburgh's Royal Botanic Gardens, famed for their rhododendrons and especially striking for their avenue of Great Redwoods, planted in 1863 and now over 100ft high. There's an excellent, inexpensive café by the entrance, open in season, with an imaginative menu; you can eat there without visiting the gardens if trees aren't your thing.
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