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Islay
Islay whisky
Islay has only recently woken up to the fact that its whisky distilleries are a major tourist attraction. Nowadays, each distillery offers guided tours, traditionally ending with a generous dram, and a refund for your entrance fee if you buy a bottle in the shop - be warned, however, that a bottle of the stuff is no cheaper at source, so expect to pay over £20 for the privilege. Pick up the tourist board's "Islay and Jura Whisky Trail" leaflet, and phone ahead to make sure there's a tour running, as times do change frequently.
Ardbeg tel 01496/302244, www.ardbeg.com. The ten-year-old Ardbeg is traditionally considered the saltiest, peatiest malt on Islay (and that's saying something). Bought by Glenmorangie in 1997, the distillery has been thoroughly overhauled and restored, yet it still has bags of character inside. The Old Kiln Café is excellent (June-Aug daily 10am-5pm; rest of year Mon-Fri 10am-4pm). Guided tours regularly 10.30am-3.30pm; £2.
Bowmore tel 01496/810441, www.morrisonbowmore.com. Bowmore is probably the best place to head if this is your first distillery tour, as it is the most central on Islay (also with unrivalled disabled access). Bowmore is also one of the few distilleries still doing its own malting and kilning. The standard twelve-year-old Bowmore you get at the end is smooth, with just a hint of Islay peat. Guided tours: Easter-Sept Mon-Fri 10.30am, 11.30am, 2pm & 3pm, Sat 10.30am; Oct-Easter Mon-Fri 10.30am & 2pm; £2.
Bruichladdich tel 01496/850221. Bruichladdich only came back into production in 2001, and is the only independent distillery left on Islay. Regular guided tours (Mon-Fri 10.30am, 11.30am & 2.30pm, Sat 10.30am & 2.30pm; £3) have only just started again, so it's best to phone ahead.
Bunnahabhainn tel 01496/840646. A visit to Bunnahabhain (pronounced "bunna-have-in") is really only for whisky obsessives. The road from Port Askaig is windy, the whisky is the least characteristically Islay, and the distillery itself is only in production for a few months each year. Guided tours are by appointment (Mon-Fri only; free).
Caol Ila tel 01496/3027600. Caol Ila (pronounced "cul-eela"), just north of Port Askaig, is a modern distillery, the majority of whose lightly peaty malt goes into blended whiskies. No-frills guided tours are by appointment (Mon-Fri only; £3).
Lagavulin tel 01496/302400, www.scotch.com. Lagavulin probably is the classic, all-round Islay malt, with lots of smoke and peat. The distillery enjoys a fabulous setting and is extremely busy all year round. Phone ahead for details of the guided tours (Mon-Fri only; £3), at the end of which you'll get a taste of the best-selling sixteen-year-old.
Laphroaig tel 01496/302418, www.laphroaig.com. Another classic smokey, peaty Islay malt, and another great setting. One bonus at Laphroaig is that you get to see the malting and see and smell the peat kilns. There are regular guided tours (Mon-Fri 10.15am & 2.15pm; free), but phone ahead to make sure.
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