Kilmartin Glen
-> Scotland
-> Argyll
-> Mid-Argyll
-> Kilmartin Glen
The Kilmartin Glen is the most important prehistoric site on the Scottish mainland. The most remarkable relic is the linear cemetery, where several cairns are aligned for more than two miles, to the south of the village Kilmartin. These are thought to represent the successive burials of a ruling family or chieftains, but nobody can be sure. The best view of the cemetery's configuration is from the Bronze Age Mid-Cairn, but the Neolithic South Cairn, dating from around 3000 BC, is by far the oldest and the most impressive, with its large chambered tomb roofed by giant slabs.
Close to the Mid-Cairn, the two Temple Wood stone circles appear to have been the architectural focus of burials in the area from Neolithic times to the Bronze Age. Visible to the south are the impressively cup-marked Nether Largie standing stones (no public access), the largest of which looms over 10ft high. Cup- and ring-marked rocks are a recurrent feature of prehistoric sites in the Kilmartin Glen and elsewhere in Argyll. There are many theories as to their origin: some see them as Pictish symbols, others as primitive solar calendars. The most extensive markings in the entire country are at Achnabreck, off the A816 towards Lochgilphead.
Situated on high ground to the north of the cairns is the tiny village of KILMARTIN, where the old manse adjacent to the village church now houses a Museum of Ancient Culture (daily 10am-5.30pm; www.kilmartin.org; £3.90), which is both enlightening and entertaining. Not only can you learn about the various theories concerning prehistoric crannogs, henges and cairns, but you can practise polishing an axe, examine different types of wood and fur, and listen to a variety of weird and wonderful sounds (check out the Gaelic bird imitations). The nearby church is worth a brief reconnoitre, as it shelters the badly damaged and weathered Kilmartin crosses, while a separate enclosure in the graveyard houses a large collection of medieval grave slabs of the Malcolms of Poltalloch.
To the south of Kilmartin, beyond the linear cemetery, lies the raised peat bog of Mòine Mhór (Great Moss), best known as home to the Iron Age fort of Dunadd, one of Scotland's most important Celtic sites, occupying a distinctive 176-foot-high rocky knoll once surrounded by the sea but currently stranded beside the winding River Add. It was here that Fergus, the first King of Dalriada, established his royal seat, having arrived from Ireland in around 500 AD. Its strategic position, the craggy defences and the view from the top are all impressive, but it's the stone carvings between the twin summits which make Dunadd so remarkable: several lines of inscription in ogam (an ancient alphabet of Irish origin), the faint outline of a boar, a hollowed-out footprint and a small basin. The boar and the inscriptions are probably Pictish, since the fort was clearly occupied long before Fergus got there, but the footprint and basin have been interpreted as being part of the royal coronation rituals of the kings of Dalriada. It is thought that the Stone of Destiny was used at Dunadd before being moved to Scone Palace, then to Westminster Abbey in London, where it languished until it was returned to Edinburgh in 1996.
Great-value B&B is available at Tibertich (tel 01546/810281, www.tibertich.com; under £40; March-Oct), a working sheep farm in the hills to the north of Kilmartin, off the A816, and also in the supremely isolated Ardifuir (tel 01546/510271, duntrune@msn.com; £40-50), a farmhouse in the grounds of Duntrune Castle, very close to the sea. Alternatively, you could hole up in Crinan or Cairnbaan. The aforementioned café/restaurant at Kilmartin House is a great lunchtime eating option; alternatively, the Cairn (tel 01546/510254; March-Oct), opposite the church in Kilmartin, is open in the evening, and features moderately expensive Scottish and Mediterranean dishes.
Copyright Rough Guides Ltd as trustees for its authors. Published by Rough Guides. All rights reserved. The Rough Guides name is a trademark of Rough Guides Ltd. |
back