Oban
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The solidly Victorian resort of OBAN enjoys a superb setting - the island of Kerrera providing its bay with a natural shelter - distinguished by a bizarre granite amphitheatre, dramatically lit at night, on the hilltop above the town. Despite a population of just eight thousand, it's by far the largest port in northwest Scotland, the second-largest town in Argyll, and the main departure point for ferries to the Hebrides. If you arrive late, or are catching an early boat, you may have to spend the night here (there's no real need otherwise); if you're staying elsewhere, it's a useful base for wet-weather activities and shopping, although it does get uncomfortably crowded in the summer.
The only truly remarkable sight in Oban is the town's landmark, McCaig's Tower, a stiff ten-minute climb from the quayside. Built in imitation of Rome's Colosseum, it was the brainchild of a local businessman a century ago, who had the twin aims of alleviating off-season unemployment among the local stonemasons and creating a museum, art gallery and chapel. In his will, McCaig gave instructions for the lancet windows to be filled with bronze statues of the family, though no such work was ever undertaken. Instead, the folly has been turned into a sort of walled garden, and simply provides a wonderful seaward panorama, particularly at sunset.
Down in the centre of town, you can pass a few hours admiring the boats in the harbour and looking out for scavenging seals in the bay. If the weather's bad, the best option is to sign up for one of the excellent guided tours around Oban Distillery (Mon-Fri 9.30am-5pm; Easter-Oct also Sat; July-Sept Mon-Fri until 8.30pm, Sun noon-5pm; www.scotch.com; £3.50), in the centre of town off George Street. The tour ends with a generous dram of Oban's lightly peaty malt (and a refund of the admission fee if you buy a bottle).
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