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The ancient Pictish kingdom of Fife is barely fifty miles at its widest point, but it has a definite identity, inextricably linked with the waters which surround it on three sides - the Tay to the north, the Forth to the south, and the cold North Sea to the east. Despite its small size, Fife encompasses several different regions, with a marked difference between the semi-industrial south and the rural north. In the south the most notable attractions are the perfectly preserved town of Culross, with its cobbled streets and collection of historic buildings, the town of Dunfermline, a former capital of Scotland, and the dramatic Forth Rail Bridge and Road Bridge. To the north in Central Fife is the absorbing village of Falkland with its impressive ruined palace and the country town of Cupar, a charming market town set in rolling countryside.
In the northeast corner of Fife the landscape varies from the gentle hills in the rural hinterland to windswept cliffs, rocky bays and sandy beaches. Most visitors are drawn to St Andrews, Scotland's oldest university town and the home of the world-famous Royal and Ancient golf club. South of St Andrews, the tiny stone harbours of the fishing villages of the East Neuk are an undeniably appealing extension to any visit to this part of Fife.
The main transport route through the region is the M90 from Edinburgh to Perth, which edges Fife's western boundary. The coastal route is more attractive, however, and also affords relatively easy access into the centre of Fife. The train line follows the coast as far north as Kirkcaldy and then cuts inland towards Dundee, stopping on the way at Cupar and Leuchars (from where buses run to St Andrews). Exploration by public transport of the eastern and western fringes requires some planning as there is no train service and buses are few and far between. However, if you're planning on tackling a large swathe of Fife in one day, ask for a Fife Rover ticket from any bus driver; this costs £10 for a day and is valid on all Stagecoach Fife buses (tel 01592/416060), including those connecting with Glasgow, Edinburgh, Dundee and Stirling.