Pittenweem, St Monan's and Elie
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Two miles from Anstruther, PITTENWEEM has a busy harbour and fish market, as well as a number of small art galleries. Pittenweem almost merges into ST MONANS, smallest of the East Neuk fishing villages, though if you take the coastal path between the two you'll encounter a reconstructed stone windmill - a reminder of the area's link with the Low Countries - standing above some old salt pans. St Monans is worth a visit for its splendid Seafood Restaurant, at the far end of the harbour (tel 01333/730327), where you can eat or drink in the dignified old bar or eat in the smarter restaurant with its panoramic views over the coastline. The meals, while expensive, make imaginative use of the freshest local fish and crustaceans.
Three miles on from St Monans is ELIE, gatherered round a curve of golden brown sand twelve miles south of St Andrews, a popular escape for middle-class Edinburgh families who come for the bracing air and golf courses. The top local restaurant is the Bouquet Garni (tel 01333/330374), which specializes in fresh seafood and game, though a lot more relaxed and convivial is the Ship Inn, located behind the beach near the harbour, where you'll find great bar food and, come summer, lots of lively local banter in the beer garden. You can stay beside the pub at Rockview Guest house (tel 01333/330246; £50-60).
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