West Highland Way
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Opened in 1980, the spectacular West Highland Way was Scotland's first long-distance footpath, stretching some 95 miles from Milngavie (pronounced "mill-guy", six miles north of central Glasgow, to Fort William, where it reaches the foot of Ben Nevis, Britain's highest mountain. Today, it is by far the most popular footpath in Scotland, and while for many the range of scenery, relative ease of walking and nearby facilities make it a classic route, others find it a little too busy in high season, particularly in comparison with the relative isolation which can be found in many other parts of the Highlands.
The route follows ancient drove roads, along which Highlanders herded their cattle and sheep to market in the lowlands, as well as military roads built by troops to control the Jacobite insurgence in the eighteenth century, old coaching roads and even disused railway lines. In addition to the stunning scenery, which is increasingly dramatic as the path heads north, walkers may see some of Scotland's rarer wildlife, including red deer, feral goats - ancestors of those left behind after the Highland clearances - and, soaring over the highest peaks, golden eagles.
Passing through the lowlands north of Glasgow, the route runs along the eastern shores of Loch Lomond, over the Highland Boundary Fault Line, then round Crianlarich, crossing open heather moorland across the Rannoch Moor wilderness area. It passes close to Glen Coe, notorious for the massacre of the MacDonald clan, before reaching Fort William. Apart from a stretch between Loch Lomond and Bridge of Orchy, when the path is within earshot of the main road, this is wild, remote country: north of Rowardennan on Loch Lomond, the landscape is increasingly exposed, and you should be well prepared for sudden and extreme weather changes.
Though this is emphatically not the most strenuous of Britain's long-distance walks - it passes between lofty mountain peaks, rather than over them - a moderate degree of fitness is required as there are some steep ascents. If you're looking for an added challenge, you could work a climb of Ben Lomond or Ben Nevis into your schedule. You might choose to walk individual sections of the Way (the eight-mile climb from Glen Coe up the Devil's Staircase is particularly spectacular), but to tackle the whole thing you need to set aside at least seven days; avoid a Saturday start from Milngavie and you'll be less likely to be walking with hordes of people, and there'll be less pressure on accommodation. Most walkers tackle the route from south to north, and manage between ten and fourteen miles a day, staying at hotels, B&Bs and bunkhouses en route. Camping is permitted at recognized sites.
Although the path is clearly waymarked, you may want to check the official guide, published by Mercat Press (£14.99), which includes Ordnance Survey maps as well as descrip tions of the route, with detailed cultural, historical, archeological and wildlife information. Further details about the Way, including an accommodation list, can be had from the West Highland Way ranger at Balmaha (tel 01389/870470). The very useful website
www.west-highland-way.co.uk has comprehensive accommodation listings as well as links to tour companies and transport providers, who can take your luggage from one stopping point to the next.
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