Fort William

With its stunning position on Loch Linnhe, tucked in below the snow-streaked bulk of Ben Nevis, FORT WILLIAM (known by the many walkers and climbers that come here as "Fort Bill"), should be a gem. Sadly, the same lack of taste that nearly saw the town renamed "Abernevis" in the 1950s is evident in the ribbon bungalow development and ill-advised dual carriageway - complete with grubby pedestrian underpass - which have wrecked the waterfront. The main street and the little squares off it are more appealing, though occupied by some decidedly tacky tourist gift shops.

The countryside around the town is a blend of rugged mountain terrain and tranquil sea loch. Dominating the scene to the south is Ben Nevis - Britain's highest peak, best approached from scenic Glen Nevis. Some of the best views of "the Ben", as it's sometimes called, can be found at the Commando Memorial by Spean Bridge, a small village which marks the junction of the Great Glen with Glen Roy, which stretches east into some remote high country in the centre of Scotland. The most famous glen of all, Glen Coe, lies on the main A82 road half an hour's drive south of Fort William, the two separated by the coastal inlet of Loch Leven. Nowadays the whole area is unashamedly given over to tourism, and Fort William is swamped by bus tours throughout the summer, but, as ever in the Highlands, within a thirty-minute drive you can be totally alone.

Fort William's downfall started in the nineteenth century, when the original fort, which gave the town its name, was demolished to make way for the train line. Today, the town is a sprawl of dual carriageways, and there's little to detain you except the splendid and idiosyncratic West Highland Museum, on Cameron Square, just off the High Street (June-Sept Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; July & Aug also Sun 2-5pm; Oct-May Mon-Sat 10am-4pm; £2). Its collections cover virtually every aspect of Highland life and the presentation is traditional, but very well done, making a refreshing change from state-of-the-art heritage centres.

Excursions from town include the popular day-trip to Mallaig on the Jacobite Steam Train (mid-June to Sept Mon-Fri; Aug also Sun; depart Fort William 10.20am, depart Mallaig 2.10pm; day return £22; bookings tel 01463/239026). Heading along the north shore of Loch Eil to the west coast via historic Glenfinnan, the journey takes in some of the region's most spectacular scenery. Several cruises also leave from the town pier every day, offering the chance to spot the marine life of Loch Linnhe, which includes seals, otters and seabirds.

At the suburb of Banavie, three miles north of the centre of Fort William along the A830 to Mallaig, the Caledonian Canal climbs 64ft in less than half a mile via a punishing but picturesque series of eight locks known as Neptune's Staircase. There are stunning views from here of Ben Nevis and its neighbours, and it's a popular point from which to walk or cycle along the canal towpath. Bikes and Canadian canoes can be rented from Caledonian Activity Breaks (tel 01397/772373), based at Rhiw Goch, one of the cottages backing onto the canal at the top of the sequence of locks.

More about Fort William:

Areas:

back