Loch Garten
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The Abernethy Forest RSPB Reserve on the shore of LOCH GARTEN, seven miles northeast of Aviemore and eight miles south of Grantown-on-Spey, is famous as the nesting site of one of Britain's rarest birds. A little over fifty years ago, the osprey, known in North America as the fish hawk, had completely disappeared from the British Isles. Then, in 1954, a single pair of these exquisite white-and-brown raptors mysteriously reappeared and built a nest in a tree half a mile or so from the loch. Although efforts were made to keep the exact location secret, one year's eggs fell victim to a gang of thieves, and thereafter the area became the centre of an effective high-security operation. Now the birds are well established not only here but elsewhere, and there are believed to be up to 150 pairs nesting across the Highlands. The best time to visit is between late April and August, when the ospreys return from West Africa to nest and the RSPB opens an observation centre (daily 10am-6pm; £2.50), complete with powerful telescopes and CCTV monitoring of the nest. This is the place to come to get a glimpse of osprey chicks in their nest; you'll be luckier to see the birds perform their trademark swoop over water to pluck a fish out with their talons.
Loch Garten is about a mile and a half west of BOAT OF GARTEN village: from the village, if you cross the Spey then take the Grantown road, the reserve is signposted to the right. Boat of Garten has a couple of good accommodation options: Fraoch Lodge, 15 Deshar Rd (tel 01479/831331, www.scotmountain.co.uk) is an excellent hostel with bunkhouse and twin rooms (under £40), and provides high-quality home-cooked meals along with good facilities. Alternatively, Craigard HouseHotel (tel 01479/831423; £50-60) offers stylish accommodation in an old hunting lodge, and includes a restaurant serving local game and fish which is open to non-residents.
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