Glenfinnan
-> Scotland
-> Highland region
-> West coast
-> "Rough Bounds"
-> Road to the Isles
-> Glenfinnan
GLENFINNAN, 19 miles west of Fort William at the head of Loch Shiel, was where Bonnie Prince Charlie raised his standard to signal the start of the Jacobite uprising of 1745. Surrounded by no more than 200 loyal clansmen, the young rebel prince waited to see if the Cameron of Loch Shiel would join his army. The drone of this powerful chief's pipers drifting up the glen was eagerly awaited, for without him the Stuarts' attempt to claim the English throne would have been sheer folly. Despite strong misgivings, Cameron did decide to support the uprising, and arrived at Glenfinnan on a sunny August 19 with 800 men, thereby encouraging other, wavering clan leaders to follow suit. Assured of adequate backing, the prince raised his red-and-white silk colour, proclaimed his father King James III of England, and set off on the long march to London - from which only a handful of the soldiers gathered at Glenfinnan would return. The spot is marked by a column (now a little lop-sided, Pisa-like), crowned with a clansman in full battle dress, erected as a tribute by Alexander Macdonald of Glenaladale in 1815.
Glenfinnan is a poignant place, a beautiful stage for the opening scene in a brutal drama which was to change the Highlands for ever. The visitor centre and café (daily: June-Aug 9.30am-6pm; April, May, Sept & Oct 10am-5pm; NTS; £1.50), opposite the monument, gives an account of the '45 uprising through to the rout at Culloden eight months later. A boat trip on the loch with Loch Shiel Cruises (April-Oct; tel 01397/722235) is highly recommended.
Glenfinnan is one of the most spectacular parts of the West Highland Railway line, not only for the glimpse it offers of the monument and graceful Loch Shiel, but also the mighty 21-arched viaduct built in 1901 and one of the first-ever large constructions made out of concrete. You can learn more of the history of this section of the railway at the Glenfinnan Station Museum (June-Sept daily 9.30am-4.30pm; 50p), set in the old booking office of the station. Right beside the station, two old railway carriages have been pressed into use as a highly original restaurant and bunkhouse; the Dining Car (June-Sept daily 10am-5pm; tel 01397/722300) is open for light lunches, home baking and evening meals (Fri-Sun until 8.30pm), while the Sleeping Car (tel 01397/722295; year-round), a converted 1958 camping coach, sleeps ten in bunkbeds.
Copyright Rough Guides Ltd as trustees for its authors. Published by Rough Guides. All rights reserved. The Rough Guides name is a trademark of Rough Guides Ltd. |
back