Dunbar
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Twelve miles southeast along the coast from North Berwick lies DUNBAR, which bears some resemblance to its near-neighbour with its wide, recently spruced-up High Street graced by several grand old stone buildings. One of these is the three-storey John Muir House, 128 High St (call 01368/860187 for opening hours; free), birthplace of the explorer and naturalist who created the United States' national park system. Recently refurbished, the house now acts as an interpretative and education centre inspired by the pioneer's life and legacy. A more appropriate tribute, in some respects, is the country park in Muir's honour, where an easy three-mile walk west of the harbour takes you along a rugged stretch of coast to the sands of Belhaven Bay.
The tourist office is at 143 High St (Aug Mon-Sat 9am-8pm, Sun 11am-6pm; June, July & Sept Mon-Sat 9am-7pm, Sun 11am-4pm; May Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun 11am-4pm; Oct-April Mon-Sat 9am-5pm; tel 01368/863353). For a light lunch, the Food Hamper and William Smith's on the High Street do good sandwiches, while the best evening meal options are the Creel (tel 01368/863279) by the old harbour, where you can eat steaks and seafood, including a speciality Jamaican seafood dish served with bananas, and Cuckoo Wrasse (tel 01368/865384), also by the harbour at 1 Shore St, which serves rather pricey seafood dishes in a bistro-style setting.
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