Haddington
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The East Lothian gentry keep a careful eye on HADDINGTON, their favourite country town. Its compact centre preserves an intriguing ensemble of seventeenth- to nineteenth-century architectural styles where everything of any interest has been labelled and plaqued. Haddington's centre is best approached from the west, where tree-trimmed Court Street ends suddenly with the soaring spire, stately stonework and dignified Venetian windows of the Town House, designed by William Adam in 1748.
Heading east from the town centre along High Street, it's a brief walk down Church Street - past the hooped arches of Nungate Bridge - to the hulking mass of St Mary's Church (April-Sept Mon-Sat 11am-4pm, Sun 1-4.30pm; free), Scotland's largest parish church. Built close to the reedy River Tyne, the church dates from the fourteenth century but it's a real hotchpotch of styles, the squat grey tower uneasy above clumsy buttressing and pinkish-ochre stone walls. Inside, on the Lauderdale Aisle, a munificent tomb features the best of Elizabethan alabaster carving, moustached knights and their ruffed ladies lying beneath a finely ornamented canopy. The church also offers brass rubbing, has a good tearoom and in the summer hosts internationally acclaimed concerts.
Fast and frequent buses connect Haddington with Edinburgh, fifteen miles to the west, and with North Berwick; all services stop on High Street. There's no tourist office. For food, seek out the snacks and lovely deli lunch platters at daytime Jaques & Lawrence at 37 Court St, opposite the post office. The best place for an evening meal is the Waterside Bistro (tel 1620/825674), on the far side of Nungate Bridge, justifiably popular for its delicious seafood and varied vegetarian dishes.
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