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North Berwick is served by a regular half-hour train from Edinburgh Waverley, with special travel and entry deals available for those heading for the Seabird Centre (ask at Waverley ticket office). From the station it's a ten-minute walk east to the town centre along Abbey Road, Westgate and High Street. Buses from Edinburgh (every 30min) run along the coast via Aberlady, Gullane and Dirleton and stop on High Street, while the hourly service from Haddington and Dunbar terminates outside the tourist office, on Quality Street (July Mon-Sat 9am-7pm, Sun 11am-6pm; Aug Mon-Sat 9am-8pm, Sun 11am-6pm; June & Sept Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun 11am-4pm; April & May Mon-Sat 9am-6pm; Oct-March Mon-Sat 9am-5pm; tel 01620/892197).
As befits a well-to-do holiday resort, there are several excellent B&Bs, including Windrow, 20 Marmion Rd (tel 01620/892066; £40-50; April-Sept), a Victorian house within easy walking distance of the sea, and Tantallon House, 2 West Bay Rd (tel 01620/892873; £50-60; April-Oct), next to the golf course. Of the guest houses, the seafront Craigview, 5 Beach Rd (tel 01620/892257; £60-70), has four-poster beds and serves good vegetarian breakfasts. The nearest campsite, Tantallon Caravan Park (tel 01620/893348, TantallonP@aol.com; March-Oct), occupies a prime cliff-top location a couple of miles east of the centre - take the Dunbar bus.
One of the best cafés in town is at the Seabird Centre, which has panoramic views over the beach. As well as lunches, coffees and cakes, it's also open as a bistro in the evenings (May-Sept Wed-Sat; call for winter hours; tel 01620/893342). In town, the Grange, 35 High St (tel 01620/893344; closed Mon), is a pleasant restaurant serving good quality, moderately priced meals, while both the Tantallon Inn on Marine Parade and the Marine Hotel on Cromwell Road do decent bar food.