Stonehaven and the Mearns

South of Aberdeen, the A92 and the main train line follow the coast to the busy pebbledashed town of STONEHAVEN, which attracts hordes of holidaymakers in the summer due to its sheltered Kincardine coastline, and in mid-July in particular because of its respected folk festival. The old High Street, lined with some fine town houses and civic buildings, connects the harbour and its surrounding old town with the late eighteenth-century planned centre on the other side of the River Carron. On New Year's Eve, High Street is the location for the ancient ceremony of Fireballs, when locals parade its length, swinging metal cages full of burning debris around their heads to ward off evil spirits for the year ahead.

The tourist office is at 66 Allardice St, the main street past the square (July & Aug Mon-Sat 10am-7pm, Sun noon-6pm; April-June, Sept & Oct Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; tel 01569/762806). For B&B accommodation, try the non-smoking Sirdhana at 11 Urie Crescent (tel 01569/763011; £40-50), or, a few miles south of town on the A92, Dunnottar Mains Farm (tel 01569/762621; £40-50), a decent farmhouse B&B beautifully situated right beside Dunnottar Castle. For food, the Tolbooth Seafood Restaurant (tel 01569/762287; closed Mon), above the museum on the harbour, is the place to go - it's pricey but worth it. For cheaper pub food or just a drink, try the entertaining Marine Hotel or the attractive Ship Inn, both on the harbour.

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