Eday

A long, thin island at the centre of Orkney's northern isles, Eday shares more characteristics with Rousay and Hoy than with its immediate neighbours, dominated as it is by a great block of heather-covered upland, with farmland confined to a narrow strip of coastal ground. The chief points of interest are all in the northern half of the island, beyond the post office, petrol pump and community shop on the main road. This marks the beginning of the signposted Eday Heritage Walk, which covers all the main sights (about 3hr). The walk initially follows the road heading northwest, past the RSPB bird hide overlooking Mill Loch, where several pairs of red-throated divers regularly breed. Clearly visible to the north of the road is the fifteen-foot Stone of Setter, weathered into three thick, lichen-encrusted fingers. From here, you can climb the hill to reach the Vinquoy Chambered Cairn, which has a similar structure to that of Maes Howe. You can crawl into the tomb through the narrow entrance: a skylight inside lets light into the main, beehive chamber, but not into the four side-cells.

Eday's terminal for ferries (2-3 daily; takes 1hr 15min-2hr) is at Backaland pier in the south. Car rental and taxis can be organized through Mr A. Stewart by the pier (tel 01857/622206); he also runs tailor-made two-hour minibus tours (mid-May to Aug Mon, Wed & Fri). It's also possible to do a day-trip flight on Wednesdays from Kirkwall to Eday and back (tel 01856/872494 or 873457). Bike rental is available from Martin Burkett at Hamarr, in the valley below the post office (tel 01857/622331). Friendly B&B with full board is available at Skaill Farm, a traditional farmhouse just south of the airport (tel 01857/622271; £50-60; closed April & May). The basic SYHA-affiliated hostel (www.syha.org.uk), occupies an exposed spot just north of the airport; it's run by Eday Community Association (tel 01857/622206; April-Sept), who will also advise on camping.

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