North Ronaldsay

North Ronaldsay - or "North Ron" as it's fondly known - has a unique outpost atmosphere, brought about by its extreme isolation. Measuring just three miles by one and rising only 66ft above sea level, the island is almost overwhelmed by the enormity of the sky, the strength of wind and the ferocity of the sea - so much so that its very existence seems an act of tenacious defiance. Despite these adverse conditions, North Ronaldsay has been inhabited for centuries, and continues to be heavily farmed, from old-style crofts whose roofs are made from huge local flagstones.

The island's sheep are a unique, tough, goat-like breed, who feed mostly on seaweed, giving their flesh a dark tone and a rich, gamey taste, and making their thick wool highly prized. A high drystone dyke, completed in the mid-nineteenth century and running the thirteen miles around the edge of the island, keeps them off the farmland, except during lambing season. The most frequent visitors are ornithologists, who come to catch a glimpse of the rare migrants who land here briefly on their spring and autumn migrations: there's a permanent Bird Observatory, established in 1987 by adapting a croft situated in the southwest corner of the island to wind and solar power; they can give advice as to what birds have recently been sighted.

The ferry from Kirkwall runs only once a week (usually Fri; takes 2hr 40min-3hr), though day-trips are possible on occasional summer Sundays (phone 01856/872044 for details). Your best bet is to catch a flight from Kirkwall (Mon-Sat 2 daily): if you stay the night on the island, you're eligible for a bargain £10 return fare. You can stay at the North Ronaldsay Bird Observatory (tel 01857/633200, www.nrbo.f2s.com; £50-60), which offers full board either in private guest rooms or in dorms. Full-board accommodation is also available at Garso, in the northeast (tel 01857/633244, christine christine.muir@virgin.net; £50-60), which also has a self-catering cottage. The Burrian Inn, to the southeast of the war memorial, is the island's small pub, and does hot food. Camping is possible; for further information, phone Mr Scott on 01857/633222.

Copyright Rough Guides Ltd as trustees for its authors. Published by Rough Guides. All rights reserved. The Rough Guides name is a trademark of Rough Guides Ltd.