Sanday

Sanday, though the largest of the northern isles, is also the most insubstantial, a great low-lying, drifting dune strung out between several rocky points. The island's sweeping aquamarine bays and vast stretches of clean white sand are the finest in Orkney, and in dry, clear weather it's a superb place to spend a day or two. The island has a long history as a shipping hazard, with many wrecks smashed against its shores, although the construction of the Start Point Lighthouse in 1802 on the island's exposed eastern tip reduced the risk for seafarers. Today the islanders still survive largely from farming and fishing.

The shoreline supports a healthy seal, otter and wading bird population, and behind the splendid sandy beaches are stretches of beautiful open machair and grassland, thick with wild flowers during the spring and summer. The entire coastline presents the opportunity for superb walks, with particularly spectacular sand dunes to the south of Cata Sand. Sanday is also rich in archeology, with hundreds of mostly unexcavated sites including cairns, brochs and burnt mounds. The most impressive is Quoyness Chambered Cairn, on the fertile farmland of Els Ness peninsula, dating from before 2000 BC, and partially reconstructed to a height of around 13ft.

Ferries arrive at the new terminal at the southern tip of the island and are met by the minibus (book on 01857/600467), which will take you to most points. The airfield is in the centre of the island and there are regular flights to Kirkwall (Mon-Fri 2 daily, Sat 1 daily; 10-20min). The fishing port of KETTLETOFT is where the ferry used to dock, and where you'll find the island's two hotels. Of the two, the Belsair Hotel (tel 01857/600206, joy@sanday.quista.net; £40-50) is probably the one to stay at, and has the slightly more adventurous restaurant menu; the Kettletoft Hotel has a lively bar that's popular with the locals. Of the handful of B&Bs, try the plain family-run Quivals (tel 01857/600467; under £40), who can also organize car and bike rental.

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