South Ronaldsay
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At the southern end of the series of four barriers is low-lying South Ronaldsay, the largest of the islands linked to the Mainland and, like the latter, rich farming country. The main settlement is ST MARGARET'S HOPE - or "The Hope", as it's known locally - a pleasing little gathering of stone-built houses overlooking a sheltered bay. As is obvious from the architecture, and the piers, The Hope was once a thriving port, and locals are backing the new car-ferry link with Caithness, which began in 2001. Until or unless this begins to make serious inroads into Scrabster-Stromness traffic, however, The Hope remains a very peaceful place.
One of the most enjoyable archeological sights on Orkney is the ancient chambered burial cairn at the southeastern corner of South Ronaldsay, known as the Tomb of the Eagles (daily: April-Oct 10am-8pm; Nov-March 10am-noon; £3). Discovered, excavated and still owned by local farmer Ronald Simpson, a visit here makes a refreshing change from the usual interpretative centre. First off, you get to look round the family's private museum of prehistoric artefacts; then, you get a brief guided tour of a nearby Bronze Age burnt mound, which is basically a Neolithic rubbish dump; and finally you get to walk out to the chambered cairn, by the cliff's edge, where human remains were found alongside talons and carcasses of sea eagles. To enter the cairn, you must lie on a trolley and pull yourself in using an overhead rope - something that's guaranteed to put a smile on every visitor's face.
First accommodation choice are the comfortable rooms above the Creel on the harbourfront (tel 01856/831311, www.thecreel.co.uk; £60-70), one of the best restaurants in Scotland; at £25 for two courses, it's expensive, but also friendly and relaxed. More modest bar meals are available from the popular Galley Inn, also on the seafront, and the Murray Arms Hotel (tel 01856/831205, www.murrayarmshotel.com; £40-50), on Back Road, which has rooms above the pub and a backpackers dorm round the side. The best B&B is Bellevue Guest House (tel 01856/831294; £40-50), a stone-built Victorian house on a hill just west of the village. For a hostel with more character, head for Wheems Bothy (tel 01856/831537; April-Oct), a mile and a half from the war memorial on the main road outside The Hope.
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