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Blink and you could miss the pancake-flat island of Benbecula (pronounced with stress on the second syllable), sandwiched between Protestant North Uist and Catholic South Uist. Most visitors simply trundle along the main road that cuts across the middle of the island in less than five miles - not such a bad idea, since the island is scarred from the postwar presence of the Royal Artillery who until recently used to make up half the local population. Economically, of course, the area benefited enormously from the military presence, though the impact on the environment and Gaelic culture (with so many English-speakers around) has been less positive.
The legacy of Benbecula's military past is only too evident in the depressing, barracks-like housing developments BALIVANICH (Baile a Mhanaich), the grim, grey capital of Benbecula in the northwest. The only reason to come here at all is if you happen to be flying into or out of Benbecula airport (direct flights to Glasgow, Barra and Stornoway), need to take money out of the Bank of Scotland ATM (the only one on the Uists), or stock up on provisions, best done at the old NAAFI store (now a Spar supermarket; open daily), to the west of the post office. The modern hostel Taigh-na-Cille (tel 01870/602522) is within easy walking distance of the airport, on the road to North Uist. The best thing about Balivanich is Stepping Stone, the purpose-built café-restaurant situated opposite the post office: the lunchtime café is cheap and cheerful, offering filled rolls and chips with everything, while in the evening, it's home to Sinteag restaurant, where the à la carte menu will set you back around £20 a head.