Bhearnaraigh (Berneray)

For those in search of seclusion, there's the low-lying island of Berneray - two miles by three, with a population of about 140 - now accessible via a brand-new causeway from Otternish, eight miles north of Lochmaddy. The island's main claim to fame is as the birthplace of Giant MacAskill, a nineteenth-century circus character who used to tour with Tom Thumb, and as the favoured holiday hideaway of that other great eccentric, Prince Charles, lover of Gaelic culture and royal potato-picker to local crofter, "Splash" MacKillop. Apart from the sheer peace and isolation, the island's main draw for non-royals is a three-mile-long sandy beach on the west and north coast, backed by rabbit-free dunes and machair. The other great draw is the wonderful GHHT hostel, which occupies a pair of thatched blackhouses in a lovely spot by a beach, beyond Loch a Bhàigh and the main village. Alternatively you can follow in the prince's footsteps and stay (and help out) at "Splash" MacKillop's Burnside Croft  B&B (tel 01876/540235, splashmackillop@burnsidecroft.fsnet.co.uk; £40-50; Feb-Nov), and enjoy "storytelling evenings"; bike rental is also available. There are several tearooms currently functioning along the main road, including one in the community centre at the end of the road to Borgh (Borve), all of which serve simple refreshments, and, with the new causeway in place, there's now a bus connection with Lochmaddy.

Copyright Rough Guides Ltd as trustees for its authors. Published by Rough Guides. All rights reserved. The Rough Guides name is a trademark of Rough Guides Ltd.