Scotland
-> ScotlandFestivals
In terms of the number of tourists they attract, the biggest occasions in the English calendar are the rituals that have associations with the ruling classes - from the courtly pageant of the Trooping of the Colour to the annual rowing race between Oxford and Cambridge universities. In Scotland many visitors home straight in on bagpipes, ceilidhs and Highland Games; such anachronisms certainly reflect the endemic British taste for nostalgia, but to gauge the spirit of the nation you should sample a wider range of events. London's large-scale festivals range from the riotous street party of the Notting Hill Carnival to the Promenade concerts, Europe's most egalitarian high-class music season, while the Edinburgh Festival and Welsh National Eisteddfod are vast cultural jamborees that have attained international status. Every major town in Britain has its own local arts festival, the best of which, along with various other local fairs and commemorative shows, are mentioned in the guide; we've listed the very biggest ones.
To see Britain at its most idiosyncratic, take a look at one of the numerous regional celebrations that perpetuate ancient customs, the origins and meanings of which have often been lost or conveniently forgotten. The sight of the entire population of a village scrambling around a field after a barrel (that they call a bottle), or chasing a cheese downhill is not easily forgotten. Some of these strange rituals are mentioned in the Guide and included in the list. Bear in mind that at a few of the smaller, more obscure events casual visitors are not always welcome. If in doubt, check with the local tourist office.
Also included in the list are the main sports events, which may often be difficult to get tickets for, but are invariably televised. In addition to these, there are of course football matches every Saturday (and some Sundays) from late August till early May, and cricket matches every day throughout the summer - both interesting social phenomena even for those unenthralled by team sports.
Events calendar
Mid- to late Jan Celtic Connections, Glasgow. A major celebration of Celtic and folk music held in venues across the city.
Jan 25 Burns Night: Scots worldwide get stuck into haggis, whisky and vowel-grinding poetry to commemorate Scotland's greatest poet, Robert Burns.
Mid-Feb Chinese New Year. Festivities in London's and Manchester's Chinatown districts.
Feb-March Six Nations Rugby tournament between Scotland, England, Wales, Ireland, France and Italy.
March 1 St David's Day. Hwyrnos and celebrations all over Wales.
March 1 Whuppity Scourie, Lanark. Local children race round the church beating each other with home-made paper weapons in a representation (it's thought) of the chasing away of winter or the warding off of evil spirits.
Mid-March Cheltenham Gold Cup meeting. England's premier national hunt horseracing event.
End of March or early April University Boat Race. Hugely popular rowing contest on the Thames, between the teams of Oxford and Cambridge.
Shrove Tues Purbeck Marblers and Stonecutters Day, Corfe Castle, Dorset. Ritual football game through the streets of the village.
Maundy Thurs The Queen dispenses the Royal Maundy Money (at a different cathedral annually).
Easter Mon Hare Pie Scramble and Bottle-Kicking, Hallaton, Leicestershire.
Late March or early April Grand National meeting, Aintree, Liverpool. Cruelly testing steeplechase that entices most of Britain's population into the betting shops.
April Scottish Grand National, Ayr. Not quite as testing as the English equivalent steeplechase, but an important event on the Scottish racing calendar nonetheless.
April 6 Tartan Day. Over-hyped celebration of ancestry by North Americans of Scottish descent on the anniversary of the Declaration of Arbroath in 1320. Ignored by most Scots in Scotland, other than journalists.
May English FA Cup Final. The deciding contest in the country's premier football tournament is currently without a home of its own. For the time being, the English national game's most important fixture will be held in the Welsh capital, Cardiff.
May Scottish FA Cup Final in Glasgow. Scotland's premier football event.
May 1 Padstow Hobby Horse, Padstow, Cornwall. Processions, music and dancing through the streets.
May 8 Helston Furry Dance, Helston, Cornwall.
Last Mon in May Cheese Rolling, Brockworth, Gloucestershire. Pursuit of a cheese wheel down a murderous incline - one of the weirdest customs in England.
Late May: Hay-on-Wye Festival of Literature. London's literati flock to the Welsh borders for a week.
Last week in May St David's Cathedral Festival. Superb setting for classical concerts and recitals.
Last week in May Chelsea Flower Show, Royal Hospital, Chelsea, London. Essential event for Britain's green-fingered legions.
Late May and early June Bath International Festival. International arts jamboree.
May-July Glyndebourne Opera Festival, East Sussex. The classiest and most snobbish arts festival in Britain.
June Aldeburgh Festival. Jamboree of classical music held on the Suffolk Coast. Established by Benjamin Britten.
June Shinty Camanachd Cup Final. The climax of the season for Scotland's own stick-and-ball game, normally held in one of the main Highland towns. Also marks the beginning of the Highland Games season across the Highlands, northeast and Argyll.
First week in June Eisteddfod Genedlaethol Urdd. The largest youth festival in Europe, alternating between North and South Wales.
First week in June Derby week, Epsom racecourse, Surrey. The world's most expensive horseflesh competing in the Derby, the Coronation Cup and the Oaks.
First Fri in June Cotswold Olimpicks, Chipping Campden, Gloucestershire. Rustic sports festival and torchlight procession.
First or second Sat in June Trooping the Colour, Horse Guards Parade, London. Equestrian pageantry for the Queen's Official Birthday.
Mid-June Cardiff Singer of the World competition. Huge, televised week-long music festival, with a star-studded list of international competitors.
Mid-June Appleby Horse Fair, Appleby-in-Westmorland, Cumbria.
Mid-June Royal Ascot, Berkshire. High-class horseracing attended by high-class people; the best seats go to royalty and their satellites, while the proles mill around in the outfield.
End of June World Worm-Charming Championships, Willaston, Cheshire.
Last week of June Glastonbury Festival, Somerset. Hugely popular festival, with international bands, indie music and loads of hippies.
Last week of June and first week of July Lawn Tennis Championships, Wimbledon, London. Queues are phenomenal even for the early rounds, and you need to know a freemason or ex-champion to get in to the big games.
Late June Royal Highland Agricultural Show, at Ingliston near Edinburgh.
July Scottish Open Golf Championship, held at a different venue each year. Also Highland Games at Caithness, Elgin, Glengarry, North Uist, Inverness, Inveraray, Mull, Lewis, Durness, Lochaber, Dufftown, Halkirk.
Early July Llangollen International Music Eisteddfod. Over 12,000 participants from all over the world, including choirs, dancers, folk singers, groups and instrumentalists.
Early July Glasgow International Jazz Festival, and T in the Park - the latter Scotland's biggest outdoor music event, held in Glasgow's Strathclyde Park with a star-studded line-up of contemporary bands.
First week in July Henley Royal Regatta, Oxfordshire. Rowing event attended by much the same crew as populates the grandstands at Ascot.
First week of July Tynwald Ceremony, St Johns, Isle of Man.
Second weekend in July Gûyl Werin y Cnapan, Ffostrasol, near Lampeter, Ceredigion. The best folk and Celtic music festival in the world.
Second week in July York Early Music Festival. The premier early music festival lasts for ten days.
Second or Third Sat in July Durham Miner's Gala, Durham.
Mid-July British Open Golf Championship, variable venue. The season's last Grand Slam golf tournament.
Third week in July Swan Upping, River Thames from Sunbury to Pangbourne. Ceremonial registering of the Thames cygnets.
Last week in July Royal Tournament, Earl's Court Exhibition Centre, London. Precision military displays.
Last week in July Cambridge Folk Festival. Biggest event of its kind in England.
Late July WOMAD, Reading. Three-day world music and dance festival.
Last week in July to first week in Aug Cardiff Festival. Incorporates music, art, drama, opera, literature and street entertainment.
July to early Sept The Promenade Concerts ("The Proms"), Royal Albert Hall, London. Classical music concerts ending in the fervently patriotic Last Night of the Proms.
Aug Edinburgh Festival, one of the world's great arts jamborees.
First week in Aug Royal National Eisteddfod. Wales's biggest single annual event: fun, very impressive and worth seeing if only for the overblown pageantry. Bardic competitions, readings, theatre, TV, debates and copious help for the Welsh language learner.
Early Aug The two-day Lammas Fair at St Andrews, the oldest medieval market in the country.
Early Aug Sidmouth Folk Festival. Folk and roots performers from around the world, plus theatre and dance.
Weekend in mid-Aug Bristol Balloon Fiesta. Hundreds of balloons take to the skies early morning and evening.
Aug Bank Hol Notting Hill Carnival, around Notting Hill, West London. Vivacious celebration by London's Caribbean community - plenty of music, food and floats.
Aug Bank Hol Reading Festival, Berkshire. Three-day hard rock jamboree.
Last Sun in Aug Plague Memorial, Eyam, Derbyshire.
Early Sept Ben Nevis Race (for amateurs), held on the first weekend in the month, running to the top of Scotland's highest mountain and back again. Also Highland Games at Braemar.
First Mon after Sept 4 Abbots Bromley Horn Dance, Abbots Bromley, Staffordshire. Vaguely pagan mass dance in mock-medieval costume - one of the most famous ancient customs.
Early Sept to early Nov Blackpool Illuminations, Lancashire. Five miles of extravagant light displays.
Oct Swansea Festival of Music and the Arts. Concerts, jazz, drama, opera, ballet and art events throughout the city.
Late Oct Glenfiddich Piping Championships at Blair Atholl for the world's top ten solo pipers.
Late Oct to early Nov Huddersfield Contemporary Music Festival. One of Europe's premier showcases for up-to-the-minute highbrow music.
First Sun in Nov London to Brighton Veteran Car Rally. Ancient machines lumbering the 57 miles down the A23 to the seafront.
Nov 5 Guy Fawkes Night. Nationwide fireworks and bonfires commemorating the foiling of the Gunpowder Plot in 1605 - especially raucous celebrations at York (Fawkes' birthplace), Ottery St Mary in Devon and at Lewes, East Sussex.
Mid-Nov Lord Mayor's Procession and Show, the City of London. Cavalcade to mark the inauguration of the new mayor.
Nov 30 St Andrew's Day, celebrating Scotland's patron saint.
Dec 31 New Year Walk-In, Llanwrtyd Wells, Powys. A boozy stagger around the town.
Dec 31 Tar Barrels Parade, Allendale Town, Northumberland.
Dec 31 & Jan 1 Hogmanay and Ne'er Day: traditionally more important to the Scots than Christmas, known for the custom of "first-footing", when groups of revellers troop into neighbours' houses at midnight bearing gifts. More popular these days are huge and highly organized street parties, most notably in Edinburgh, but also in Aberdeen, Glasgow and other centres.
Sports and outdoor pursuits
No matter where you are in Britain, you're never far from a stretch of countryside where you can lose the crowds on a brief walk or cycle ride. For tougher specimens, there are numerous long-distance footpaths, as well as opportunities for the more extreme disciplines of rock climbing and potholing (caving). On the coast and many of the inland lakes you can follow the more urbane pursuits of sailing and windsurfing, and there are plenty of fine beaches for less structured fresh-air activities or just slobbing around.
Walking and climbingWalking routes trace many of Britain's wilder areas, amid landscapes varied enough to suit anyone. More sedate walkers will be happy enough in England, where many of the footpaths traverse moorlands, but if you're after more demanding exercise, or a feeling of isolation, head for Wales or Scotland. Welsh Snowdonia and the Scottish Highlands offer Britain's best climbing and have acted as training grounds for some of the world's greatest mountaineers.
Numerous short walks and several major walks are covered in the guide- however, you should use these notes only as general outlines and always in conjunction with a good map. Where possible we have given details of the best maps to use - in most cases one of the Ordnance Survey (OS) series - along with advice, leaflets and specialist guidebooks from tourist offices and shops in walking areas. In England and Wales you need to keep to established routes as you'll often be crossing private land, even within the National Parks: all OS maps mark public rights of way. Scotland, in contrast, has a tradition of free public access to most of the countryside, restricted only at certain times of the year. Safety in the British hills
British mountains are not high by European standards, but, due to rapid weather changes, they are potentially extremely dangerous and should be treated with respect. Every year, in every season, climbers and hill walkers die on mountains in Scotland, Wales and the English Lake District. If the weather looks as if it's closing in, get down fast. It is essential that you are properly equipped - even for what appears to be an easy expedition in apparently settled weather - with proper warm and waterproof layered clothing, supportive footwear and adequate maps, a compass (which you should know how to use) and food. Always leave word of your route and what time you expect to return; and remember to contact the person again to let them know that you are back.
In England
England's finest walking areas are the granite moorlands and spectacular coastlines of Devon and Cornwall in the southwest, and the highlands of the north - the low limestone and millstone crags of the Peak District, between Sheffield and Manchester; the Yorkshire Dales, the stretch of the Pennines to the north of the Peak District; the North York Moors, a bleak, treeless upland to the east of the Pennines; and the glaciated Cumbrian Mountains, better known as the Lake District. On summer weekends the more accessible reaches of these regions can get very crowded with day-trippers, but at any time of the year you'll find yourself in relative isolation if you undertake one of the Long Distance Footpaths (LDPs). Defined as any route over twenty miles long, LDPs exist all over the country and are marked at frequent intervals with an acorn waymarker. Youth hostels are littered along most routes, though you may need a tent for some of the more heroic hikes.
In Scotland
The whole of Scotland offers good opportunities for gentle hill walking, from the smooth, grassy hills and moors of the Southern Uplands to the wild and rugged country of the northwest. Scotland has three Long Distance Footpaths (LDPs), each of which takes days to walk, though you can of course just cover sections of them. The Southern Upland Way crosses Scotland from coast to coast in the south, and is the country's longest at 212 miles; the best known is the West Highland Way, a 95-mile hike from Glasgow to Fort William via Loch Lomond and Glen Coe; and the gentler Speyside Way, in Aberdeenshire, is a mere thirty miles. The green signposts of the Scottish Rights of Way Society point to these and many other cross-country routes; while in the wilder parts the accepted freedom to roam allows extensive mountain walking, rock climbing, orienteering and allied activities.
Scotland's main climbing areas are in the Highlands, which boast many challenging peaks as well as great hill walks. There are 279 mountains over 3000ft (914m) in Scotland, known as Munros after the man who first classified them: many walkers "collect" them, and it's possible to chalk up several in a day. Serious climbers will probably head for Glen Coe or Torridon which offer difficult routes in spectacular surroundings. These and some of the other finest Highland areas (Lawers, Kintail, West Affric) are in the ownership of the National Trust for Scotland, while Blaven and Ladhar Bheinn (Knoydart) are John Muir Trust properties; both allow year-round access. Elsewhere there may be restricted access during lambing (dogs are particularly unwelcome during April and May) and deer-stalking seasons (mid-August to the third week in October). The booklet Heading for the Scottish Hills (published by the Scottish Mountaineering Club or "SMC"; £6.95) provides such information on all areas.
In Wales
Wales's best walking country is to be found within its three national parks. Almost the whole of the northwestern corner of Wales is taken up with the Snowdonia National Park, a dozen of the country's highest peaks separated by dramatic glaciated valleys and laced with hundreds of miles of ridge and moorland paths. From Snowdonia, the Cambrian Mountains stretch south to the Brecon Beacons National Park, with its striking sandstone scarp at the head of the South Wales coalfield, and lush, cave-riddled limestone valleys to the south. One hundred and seventy miles of Wales's southwestern peninsula make up the third park - the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, best explored by the Pembrokeshire Coast Path that traverses the cliff tops, frequently dipping down into secluded coves. This is only one of Wales's four frequently walked Long Distance Paths - the other three LDPs are the 168-mile-long Offa's Dyke Path that traces the England-Wales border; the 274-mile Cambrian Way, cutting north-south over the Cambrian Mountains, and Glyndwyr's Way, which weaves through mid-Wales for 120 miles.
As well as being superb walking country, Wales offers some of Britain's best rock climbing and some challenging scrambles - ascents that fall somewhere between walks and climbs, requiring some use of your hands. There are a couple of noted climbing spots around the Pembrokeshire coast and in the Brecon Beacons but the vast majority are in Snowdonia, with its predominance of low-lying crags and easy access. The best general guide for experienced climbers is Rock Climbing in Snowdonia by Paul Williams (£12.95, Constable).
Walking-holiday specialists
Adventureline tel 01209/820847, www.chyycor.co.uk/adventureline. Small group tours with local guides around the Celtic landscapes of Cornwall.
Explore Britain tel 01740/650900. Guided or independent walking holidays countrywide with luggage transfer.
Footpath Holidays tel 01985/840049, www.footpath-holidays.com. Packages to various hill and coastal districts in England, with experienced group leaders.
HF Walking Holidays tel 020/8905 9556 or 905 9388, www.hfholidays.co.uk. A wide choice of locations and lodging in comfortable country houses.
Instep Walking Holidays tel 01903/766475, www.instephols.co.uk. Self-guided holidays with accommodation in small country hotels and guest houses, mainly in the south of England.
Sherpa Expeditions tel 0181/577 2717, www.sherpa-walking-holidays.co.uk. At-your-own-pace, self-guided walks between country pubs.
Walkabout Scotland tel 0131/661 7168, www.walkaboutscotland.com. A great way to get a taste of hiking in the Highlands, with guided hillwalking day-trips from Edinburgh for £40 per person, with all transport included.
Cycling
Although there has been a boom in the sale of mountain bikes and a rise in the number of towns and cities that have incorporated designated cycle routes into their traffic schemes, cyclists tend to be treated with disrespect by many motorists. British cyclists are estimated to be twelve times more likely to be killed or injured on the road (per miles cycled) than their counterparts in Denmark, where a network of safe cycle paths and traffic-calming schemes has been created, although the organization SUSTRANS is attempting to go some way towards addressing this problem.
Surprisingly, cycle helmets are not compulsory in Britain - but if you're hellbent on tackling the congestion, pollution and aggression of city traffic, you're well advised to get one. You do have to have a rear reflector and front and back lights when riding at night, and are not allowed to carry children without a special child seat. It is also illegal to cycle on pavements (sidewalks), and in most public parks. A secure lock (preferably some kind of "D" lock) is also indispensable and it's always a good idea to make a note of your frame number in case you have to report a theft to the police.
Bike rental is available at cycle shops in most large towns, and at villages within national parks and other scenic areas; the addresses and telephone numbers of these appear in the relevant sections of the guide. Expect to pay in the region of £10-20 per day for something sturdy, with discounts for longer periods.
Carrying your bike on public transport
The majority of airlines will carry bicycles as part of your luggage allowance on plane journeys, although protruding parts, such as pedals and handlebars, have to be removed, and the tyres deflated; some carriers also require you to stash the machine in a bike bag or cardboard cover. Check with your airline well in advance to find out exactly what their terms and conditions are, and bear in mind that you may have to pay excess baggage. Transporting cycles by ferry is also free, but a lot more straightforward; you just wheel them on and off, and reservations are not normally required.
Carrying your bike by train is a good way of getting to the interesting parts of England without a lot of stressful or boring pedalling. For some reason, however, rail companies seem hellbent on making life difficult for cyclists by slapping on hefty surcharges. Most suburban trains will carry cycles outside of morning and evening rush hours (7.30-9.30am & 4-7pm), but they are not allowed at all on some express trains (or Eurostar), while those that do accept cycles charge between £1 and £3; this usually has to be paid at least 24 hours in advance, and for each separate leg of the trip, which can work out to be ridiculously expensive if your journey involves a couple of changes. If you reserve 14 days in advance, Eurotunnel will carry you and your bike on the 12.30pm or 6pm train from Calais and the 9.30am or 3.30pm train from Folkestone. A day-trip costs £15, a five-day return £31 and an open return £59. For information and to book, call 01303/288933 or 288680.
Cycle routes
Funded by a £43,500,000 grant by the Millennium Commission, in partnership with local authorities and organizations such as the National Trust and Countryside Agency, the charity SUSTRANS is dedicated to expanding the National Cycle Network and aims to cover some 10,000 miles by 2005, passing within two miles of some twenty million people. A large proportion of the network is made up of quiet backroads, dubbed "Cycleways", but more than half runs along disused railways and canal towpaths, including the showpiece section connecting the cities of Bath and Bristol.
Aside from these, the backroads of rural Britain (those labelled with the prefix "B") make infinitely more enjoyable routes than trunk routes (or "A" roads), with generally amiable gradients and a sufficient density of pubs and B&Bs to keep the days manageable. Your main problem out in the countryside will be getting hold of any spare parts - only inner tubes and tyres are easy to find.
Off-road cycling is popular in the highland walking areas, but cyclists should remember to keep to rights of way designated on maps as Bridleways, BOATs ("Byways Open To All Traffic") or RUPFs ("Roads Used As Public Footpaths") and to pass walkers at considerate speeds. Footpaths, unless otherwise marked, are for pedestrian use only. Other rules of the road to bear in mind are that cycles are not permitted on motorways (labelled with the prefix "M").
Armed with a detailed OS map of any area, you can improvise scenic routes of your own that avoid the main roads - better still, most good bookshops stock a range of cycling guides, featuring suggestions for rides of varying length, with coloured maps and detailed route descriptions. Also useful are SUSTRANS' maps of the official cycle network (£5.99) and their Official Guide to the National Network (£9.99).
With more time, you may want to take on one of Britain's challenging long-distance routes. The Cycle Touring Club or CTC, publishes special maps for some of these, and supplies members with touring and technical advice as well as insurance. The classic cross-Britain route is Land's End, in the far southwest of England, to John O'Groats, on the northeast tip of Scotland - roughly a thousand miles that can be covered in two to three weeks, depending on which of the three CTC-recommended routes you choose. Another favourite coast-to-coast option is the journey from Lowestoft, in the southeast county of Suffolk, to the Ardnamurchan peninsula in northwest Scotland. The CTC suggests a ten-day itinerary, but you could easily spend twice that long scaling the English watershed. The same applies to the wonderful 130-mile Wye Valley route, which winds from the Severn Estuary through the forests and moorlands of the Welsh borders to the rough mountains of mid-Wales. Other tempting long-distance tours could take you around the Yorkshire Dales, Pennines, and Peak district, around Dartmoor and the Cornish coast, or across the austere North Yorkshire Moors. Visitors from abroad can get copies of their leaflets (costing £2-4) which detail tour routes in these and other regions.
Useful cycling contacts
The Cycle Touring Club (CTC) tel 01483/417217, www.CTC.org.uk.
SUSTRANS tel 0117/929 0888, www.sustrans.org.uk.
Cycling holidays
For those who want a guaranteed hassle-free cycling holiday, there are various companies offering easy-going packages. These can take all sorts of forms, but generally include transport of your gear to each night's halt, pre-booked accommodation, detailed route instructions, a packed lunch and back-up support. Most companies offer some budget cycling holidays, with hostels or B&Bs instead of hotels.
Cycling holiday specialists
Activities tel 0870/740 5055, www.acornactivities.co.uk. Weekend and one-week tours, with bikes, accommodation, luggage transportation and maps provided.
Bespoke Highland Tours tel 01687/450272, www.scotland-inverness.co.uk/bht-main.htm. Organizes cycle touring in the Scottish Highlands and Islands, using a reliable and long-standing network of B&Bs and hostels, and arranges transport links and baggage transfer.
Bike Breaks tel 0151/722 8050, www.byways-breaks.com. Tours of varying length in the Cheshire and Shropshire countryside.
Compass Holidays tel 01242/250642, www.compass-holidays.com. Guided or independent tours in the Cotswolds, the Lake District, Cornwall and Warwickshire.
Country Lanes tel 01425/655022, www.countrylanes.co.uk. Tours in the New Forest, the Cotswolds and the Lake District starting from train stations.
Rough Tracks tel 0700/0560 749, www.rough-tracks.co.uk. Mountain bike and road weekend tours across the country. Also bike maintenance weekends.
Beaches
Britain is ringed by fine beaches and bays, the best of which are readily accessible by public transport - though of course that means they tend to get very busy in high summer. For a combination of decent climate and good sand, southwest England is the best area, especially the coast of north Cornwall and Devon. The beaches of England's southern coast become more pebbly as you approach the southeastern corner of the country - resorts round here are more garish than their southwestern counterparts. Moving up the east coast, the East Anglian shore is predominantly pebbly and very exposed, making it ideal for those who want to escape the crowds rather than bask in the sun, while right up in the northeast there are some wonderful sandy strands and old-fashioned seaside resorts, though the North Sea breezes often require a degree of stoicism. Over in the northwest, the inland hills of Cumbria are a greater attraction than anything on the coast, though Blackpool has a certain appeal as the apotheosis of the "kiss-me-quick" holiday town.
Many of Scotland's beaches and bays are deserted even in high summer - perhaps hardly surprising given the bracing winds and icy water. Though you're unlikely to come here for a beach holiday, it's worth sampling one or two beaches, even if you never shed as much as a sweater. A rash of slightly melancholy seaside towns lies within easy reach of Glasgow, while on the east coast, the relatively low cliffs and miles of sandy beaches are ideal for walking. Despite the low temperature of the water, the beaches in the northeast are beginning to figure on surfers' itineraries, attracting enthusiasts from all over Europe. Perhaps the most beautiful beaches of all are to be found on Scotland's islands: endless, isolated stretches that on a sunny day can seem the epitome of the Scottish Hebridean dream.
In Wales the best areas to head to for sunbathing and swimming are the Gower peninsula, the Pembrokeshire coast, the Llyn and the southwest coast of Anglesey. The southwest-facing beaches of Wales offer the best conditions for surfing, key spots being Rhossili, at the western tip of the Gower, and Whitesands Bay near St David's. Windsurfers tend to congregate at Barmouth, Borth, around the Pembrokeshire coast and at The Mumbles. Though the north coast has more resorts than any other section of the Welsh coastline, its beaches are certainly not the most attractive and nor is it a good place to swim.
It has to be said that Britain's beaches are not the cleanest in Europe, and many of those that the British authorities declare to be acceptable actually fall below EU standards. Although steps are being taken to improve the situation, far too many stretches of the coastline are contaminated by sea-borne effluent or other rubbish. For annually updated, detailed information on the condition of Britain's beaches, the Good Beach Guide (£3.50), compiled by the Marine Conservation Society (tel 01989/566017, www.goodbeachguide.co.uk), is the definitive source.
Surfing
For most people, surfing in Britain means surfing in Newquay, and while it's true that the southwest of England is the heartland of the British surf scene, it would be a mistake to think that there aren't decent waves elsewhere. You don't get the sunshine of Hawaii, and the waves are steely-grey rather than turquoise-blue, but there are world-class waves to be found if you know where to go. The major difference between Britain and the States or Australia, of course, is the water temperature, which even in mid-summer rarely exceeds 15°C, and in winter can drop to as low as 7°C or colder (on the north coast of Scotland you're surfing at the same latitude as Alaska and Iceland). For this reason, if you're planning to surf in the UK - particularly in winter - make sure you have a good wetsuit, and ideally a 5/3mm "steamer", wetsuit boots and, outside summer, gloves and a hood. You'll also need a shedload of enthusiasm to get out into the waves, although when you do eventually paddle out, you may be pleasantly surprised.
In England, the northeast coast, from Yorkshire to Northumberland, has a growing population of hardy surfers willing to endure low temperatures to surf clean northerly groundswells. The coastline here is often spectacular, and although the more popular breaks, such as Saltburn, are now crowded, you can find relative isolation off the beaten track. Nevertheless, the southwest, or more specifically Newquay, Cornwall, remains the country's undisputed surf Mecca. Visitors are often amazed to see the hype surrounding this self-styled "surf city". In summer, every other male seems to be a "surfie", sporting regulation bleached hair and designer gear, but the majority only turn up to cruise surf babes. It can still be hectic out in the water though, especially at the main break, Fistral, which regularly hosts international contests. Head out of town, however, and things quieten down noticeably. Try spots such as Perranporth or Polzeath, or travel up to Devon, which also gets decent waves, despite the overcrowding of its main break, Croyde.
Surfing in Wales tends to be concentrated on the south coast, around the Gower peninsula, which boasts a good variety of beach and reef breaks, and a lively social scene. One thing to bear in mind if you surf here, though, is the enormous tidal range of the Bristol Channel - it can be up to thirteen metres, and this can have a major effect on the surf. The tidal range drops as you head west towards Pembrokeshire, where the coastline becomes more scenic, and numbers in the water diminish considerably. This area, comprising Britain's only coastal national park, is where you'll find the most consistent surf beach in Wales, Freshwater West, as well as seals, porpoise, dolphins, basking sharks and sunfish in the water. Washed by the Irish Sea, the west coast gets much less surf than the south, with the waves breaking mostly in winter. Aberystwyth is the main centre hereabouts, and its local breaks tend to be pretty busy. Heading further north, you come to the Llyn peninsula, in the shadow of Snowdonia, where Hell's Mouth has the best and most consistent waves in North Wales, drawing lots of weekend surfers from northern England throughout the year.
Scotland may not seem the most promising destination for surfers, but it is fast gaining a reputation for the high quality of its breaks. The number one spot is Thurso on the north coast, which has hosted the European Surfing Championships, and has what is widely acknowledged to be one of the finest reef breaks in Europe. Elsewhere along this coastline are waves which compare to those of Hawaii, Australia and Indonesia. Nor do you have to go all the way to Thurso to get tubed. Many of the best breaks lie within easy reach of large cities (eg Pease Bay, near Edinburgh, and Fraserburgh, near Aberdeen), while the spectacular west coast has numerous possibilities: try Sandwood Bay, the most isolated beach in Britain, or the waves of the Outer Hebrides. All are surrounded by stunning scenery, and you'd be unlucky to encounter another surfer for miles, which is an important consideration in itself. The fact that many of the breaks are quite isolated, the water is cold, and the surf often big and powerful means that, in general, Scottish surf is best left to experienced surfers. If you're a beginner, get local advice before you go in and be aware of your limitations; remember, if you get caught in a current off the west coast the next stop might be Iceland.
Top twenty British breaks
An asterisk (*) Indicates that the breaks are for experienced surfers only.
Bamburgh, Northumberland, northeast England. A wonderfully scenic quiet beach, with seals in the water and a spectacular castle as a backdrop.
Constantine, Cornwall, southwest England. Picks up a lot of swell.
Croyde Bay, Devon, southwest England. Good beach breaks, but crowds can be a problem.
Fistral, Newquay, Cornwall, southwest England. Hype, crowds, but still a good wave if you can get one to yourself.
Freshwater West, Pembrokeshire, South Wales. Quality beach and reef breaks. Beware of currents.
Hell's Mouth, Llyn Peninsula, North Wales. Popular, quality break.
Llangennith, Gower, South Wales. Long beach with peaks along its length. Busy.
Newgale, Pembrokeshire. South Wales. Two-mile-long beach with peaks along its length.
Pease Bay, near Dunbar, 26 miles east of Edinburgh, Scotland. A popular break suited to all abilities.
*Pete's Reef, Gower, South Wales. Picks up most swells. Popular.
*Porthleven, Cornwall, southwest England. Heavy reef break, heavy locals.
Machrihanish Bay, Mull of Kintyre. Four miles of beach breaks on one of Scotland's loneliest peninsulas.
Sandwood Bay, a day's hike south of Cape Wrath in Sutherland. Beach breaks on one of the most scenic and remote shorelines in Britain, only accessible on foot.
Sennen Cove, Cornwall, southwest England. Picks up any swell going.
Saltburn, Cleveland, northeast England. Another good beach break, with atmosphere to match.
*Skirza Harbour, three miles south of John O'Groats, northeast Scotland. An excellent left-hand reef break on the far northeast tip of Scotland.
*Staithes, Yorkshire, northeast England. Excellent reef breaks, crowded and jealously guarded by locals.
*Thurso East, just below the castle, Thurso, northern Scotland. One of the best right-hand reef breaks in Europe.
*Torrisdale Bay, Bettyhill, on the north coast of the Scottish Highlands. An excellent right-hand rivermouth break.
*Valtos, on the Uig peninsula, Lewis, Outer Hebrides, Scotland. A break on one of the Outer Hebrides' most exquisite shell-sand beaches.
Golf
There are over 400 golf courses in Scotland, where the game is less elitist, cheaper and more accessible than anywhere else in the world. The game as it's known today took shape in the sixteenth century on the dunes of Scotland's east coast, and today you'll find some of the oldest courses in the world on these early coastal sites, known as "links". If you want a round of golf, it's often possible just to turn up and play, though it's sensible to phone ahead and book, and essential for the championship courses. It's worth asking at the tourist office for the Golf Pass Scotland which will give you a discount on courses for either three or five days. Prices vary according to area.
Public courses are owned by the local council, while private courses belong to a club. You can play on both - occasionally the private courses require that you be a member of another club, and the odd one asks for introductions from a member, but these rules are often waived for overseas visitors and all you need to do is pay a one-off fee. The cost of one round will set you back between around £10 for small, nine-hole courses, up to more than £40 for eighteen holes. Simply pay as you enter and play. In remote areas the courses are sometimes unmanned - just put the admission fee into the honour box. Most courses have resident professionals who give lessons, and some rent equipment at reasonable rates. Renting a caddy car will add an extra few pounds depending on the swankiness of the course you are playing.
Scotland's championship courses, which often host the British Open tournament, are renowned for their immaculately kept greens and challenging holes, and though they're favoured by serious players, anybody with a valid handicap certificate can enjoy them. St Andrews (tel 01334/466666, www.standrews.org.uk) is the top destination for golfers: it's the home of the Royal and Ancient Golf Club, the international controlling body that regulates the rules of the game. Of its six courses, the best known is the Old Course, a particularly intriguing ground with eleven enormous greens and the world-famous "Road Hole". If you want to play, there's no introduction needed, but you'll need to book months in advance and for the Old and the New Courses have a handicap certificate - handicap limits are 24 for men and 36 for women. You could also enter your name for the daily lottery - call before 2pm on the day you'd like to play. One of the easier championship courses to get into is Carnoustie, in Angus (tel 01241/853249; £75), though you should still try and book as far ahead as possible; a handicap certificate is required - 28 for men and 36 for women. Other championship courses include Gleneagles in Perthshire (tel 01764/662231; £100), Royal Dornoch in Sutherland (tel 01862/810219; £60) and Turnberry in Ayrshire (tel 01655/331000; £120). Near Edinburgh, Muirfield (tel 01620/842123; £85; Tues & Thurs only), considered by professional players to be one of the most testing grounds in the world, is also one of the most reactionary - women can play only if accompanied by a man, and they aren't allowed into the clubhouse.
Spectator sports
As a quick glance at the national press will tell you, sport in Britain is a serious matter. Football, rugby and cricket are the major spectator sports, and horseracing also has a big following, though a fair proportion of its public has little interest beyond the Grand National, the Brits' most popular opportunity for a gamble until the National Lottery came along. The calendar is chock-full of one-off quality sports events, ranging from the massed masochism of the London Marathon to the Wimbledon championship, one of the world's greatest tennis tournaments.
For the top international events it can be almost impossible to track down a ticket without resorting to the services of a grossly overcharging ticket agency, but for many fixtures you can make credit card bookings. Should you be thwarted in your attempts to gain admission, you can often fall back on TV or radio coverage. BBC Radio 5 has live commentaries on major sporting events, while TV carries live transmission of the big international rugby and cricket matches, though very little is available on the basic analogue stations, many pubs offer free big-screen viewing of major sporting events to draw in custom.
Football
English football teams may have lost ground to the more cultured continentals in recent years, but it is still the most passionately supported sport in the land, and if you have the slightest interest in the game, then catching a league or FA Cup fixture is a must. The season runs from mid-August to early May, when the FA Cup Final (for which tickets are almost impossible to obtain) rounds things off. There are four league divisions: three, two, one and, at the top of the pyramid, the twenty-club Premier League. By far the most famous English club is Manchester United, who's supremacy is challenged most regularly by other northern clubs - Liverpool, who signed the phenomenal star Michael Owen, and Leeds and Newcastle. In the Midlands, Coventry and Birmingham's Aston Villa are the strongest clubs, while in London the contest is between Arsenal, Chelsea and Tottenham. Wales's big three teams are Cardiff City and Wrexham, who play in the second division, and Swansea City, which plays in the third; the rest of the Welsh clubs play in the feeble Konica League of Wales. Scotland has three divisions, each with fewer teams than the equivalent south of the border, and of considerably lower standard. Glasgow Rangers has dominated the top flight in recent years, and together with Glasgow Celtic are the only Scottish clubs to currently have the clout or the cash to make big-name signings. Top British clubs also take part in European matches played midweek, particularly early in the season.
The team with the biggest following is Manchester United, whose matches are almost always a sell-out, regardless of how the team is playing. Of the other glamorous English clubs, Liverpool and Newcastle United also command so ardent a following that tickets for their matches are often like gold dust. It's easy enough to get tickets, if booked in advance, for most other Premier League games, unless two local sides are playing each other. In Scotland, only the "Old Firm" clash between Rangers and Celtic (representing the Protestant and Irish Catholic communities of Glasgow respectively) is a certain full house.
Most fixtures kick off at 3pm on Saturday, though there are generally a few midweek games (usually 7.30pm on Wednesday), and one each on Sunday (kick-off between 2pm and 4pm) and Monday (kick-off at 8pm). Tickets cost from about £20 for Premier games, falling to less than £15 in the lower divisions.
Since the introduction of all-seater Premiership stadiums in 1994, top-flight games have lost their reputation for tribal violence, and there's been a striking increase in the numbers of women and children attending. Nonetheless, it's an intense business, with a lot of foul language, and being stuck in the middle of a few thousand West Ham supporters as their team goes 3-0 down is not one of life's more uplifting experiences.
Cricket
In the glory days of the Empire the English took cricket to the colonies as a means of instilling the gentlemanly values of fair play while administering a sound thrashing to the natives. These days the former colonies, such as Australia, the West Indies and India, all beat England on a regular basis, so to see the game at its best you should try to get into one of the series of three, five or six Test matches played between England and the summer's touring team. These international matches are played in the middle of the cricket season, which runs from April to September. Two of these matches are played in London - at Lord's, the home of English cricket, and The Oval; the other Test grounds are Trent Bridge (Nottingham), Old Trafford (Manchester), Headingley (Leeds) and Edgbaston (Birmingham). In tandem with the full-blown five-day Tests, there's also a series of one-day internationals, two of which are again usually held in London.
Getting to see England play one of the big teams may be difficult unless you book months in advance. If you can't wangle your way into a Test, you could watch it live on TV (the Test series is always televised), listen to ball-by-ball commentary on BBC radio, or settle down to an inter-county match, either in the county championship (these are four-day games) or in one of the three fast and furious one-day competitions: the Benson and Hedges Cup and the NatWest Trophy (both knockout competitions), or the CGU National league. Of the eighteen county teams (divided into two divisions) in the championship, two are based in London - Middlesex, who play at Lord's, and Surrey, who play at The Oval.
Prices for Test matches cost £15-40 per day; for one-day internationals you can expect to pay £20-50, but tickets for the sparsely attended county games start at as little as £7.
The rules of cricket
The laws of cricket are so complex that the official rule book runs to some twenty pages. The basics, however, are by no means as byzantine as the game's detractors make out.
There are two teams of eleven players. A team wins by scoring more runs than the other team and dismissing all the opposition - in other words, a team could score many runs more than the opposition, but still not win if the last enemy batsman doggedly stays in (hence ensuring a draw). The match is divided into innings, when one team bats and the other fields. The number of innings varies depending on the type of competition; one-day matches have one per team, Test matches and county championship matches have two.
The aim of the fielding side is to limit the runs scored and get the batsmen "out". Two players from the batting side are on the pitch at any one time. The bowling side has a bowler, a wicket keeper and nine fielders. Two umpires, one standing behind the stumps at the bowler's end and one square on to the play, are responsible for adjudicating if a batsman is out. Each innings is divided into overs, consisting of six deliveries, after which the wicket keeper changes ends, the bowler is changed and the fielders move positions.
The batsmen score runs either by running up and down from wicket to wicket (one length is one "run"), or by hitting the ball over the boundary rope, scoring four runs if it crosses the boundary having touched the ground, and six runs if it flies over. The main ways a batsman can be dismissed are: by being "clean bowled", where the bowler dislodges the bails of the wicket (the horizontal pieces of wood resting on top of the stumps); by being "run out", which is when one of the fielding side dislodges the bails with the ball while the batsman is running between the wickets; by being caught, which is when any of the fielding side catches the ball after the batsman has hit it and before it touches the ground; or "LBW" (leg before wicket), where the batsman blocks with his leg a delivery that would otherwise have hit his stumps.
These are the rudimentaries of a game whose beauty lies in the subtlety of its skills and tactics. The captain, for example, chooses which bowler to play and where to position his fielders to counter the strengths of the batsman, the condition of the pitch, and a dozen other variables. Cricket also has a beauty in its esoteric language, used to describe such things as fielding positions ("silly mid-off", "cover point", etc) and the various types of bowling delivery ("googly", "yorker", etc). For beginners, some enlightenment may be gained by watching the TV coverage, or befriending a spectator - cricket fans tend to be congenial types, eager to introduce newcomers to the mysteries of the true faith.
Rugby
Rugby gets its name from Rugby public school, where the game mutated from football (soccer) in the nineteenth century. A rugby match may at times look like a bunch of weightlifters grappling each other in the mud - as the old joke goes, rugby is a hooligan's game played by gentleman, while football is a gentleman's game played by hooligans - but it is in reality a highly tactical and athletic game. What's more, England's rugby teams have represented the country with rather more success in the last few years than the cricket and football squads.
There are two types of rugby played in Britain, both professional. Fifteen-a-side Rugby Union is very strong in working-class Wales, especially in the valleys of the former South Wales coal fields, but has upper-class associations in England, where it is the preferred character-building sport of the great fee-paying schools. The maintenance of the amateur status of Rugby Union in England contributed to its officer-class image until 1995, when the sport finally went professional. The thirteen-a-side Rugby League is played almost exclusively in the north of England. Union's move towards professionalism was in part brought about by the tendency of League clubs to poach the top Union players - such as Welsh golden boy Jonathan Davies, who defected to Widnes (half the Welsh national side is these days made up of former League players).
The Union season runs from September until the end of April, finishing off with the Pilkington Cup, Union's equivalent of the FA Cup; the League finishes in May, with the Challenge Cup. The Pilkington Cup Final, international Rugby Union Test matches and some games in the Six Nations Cup (a round-robin tournament between England, Scotland, Wales, Ireland, France and Italy) are played at Twickenham stadium in west London. The other international Union grounds are Murrayfield in Edinburgh and the Millennium Stadium in Cardiff. Unless you are affiliated to one of the 2000 clubs of the Rugby Union, or willing to pay well over the odds at a ticket agency, it is tough to get a ticket for one of these big games. For Union and League club games, however, there should be no problem getting tickets at the gate; expect to pay from £5.
Tennis
Tennis in England is synonymous with Wimbledon, the only Grand Slam tournament to be played on grass, and for many players the ultimate goal of their careers. The Wimbledon championship lasts a fortnight, in the last week of June and the first week of July. Most of the tickets, especially those with seats for the main show courts (Centre and No. 1), are allocated in advance to Wimbledon's members, other tennis clubs and corporate "sponsors" - as well as by public ballot - and by the time these have taken their slice there's not a lot left for the general public.
It is possible, however, to turn up on the day and buy tickets, and if you're rich enough you could buy through ticket agencies (although these sales are technically illegal). On tournament days, queues start to form around dawn and if you arrive by around 7am you have a reasonable chance of securing the limited number of Centre and No. 1 court tickets held back for sale on the day. If you're there by around 9am, you should get admission to the outside courts (where you'll catch some top players in the first week of the tournament). Either way, you then have a long wait until play commences at noon.
If you want to see big-name players in Britain, an easier opportunity is the Stella Artois Championship at Queen's Club in Hammersmith, London, which finishes a week before Wimbledon. Many of the stars use this tournament to acclimatize themselves to British grass-court conditions. As with Wimbledon, you have to apply for tickets in advance, although there is a limited number of returns on sale at 10am each day.
For the unlucky, there's the consolation of TV coverage, which is pretty well all-consuming for the two weeks that the Wimbledon tournament lasts.
Horse racing
For most of the British population there is just one important day in the horseracing calendar - the last Saturday in March or the first in April, when the Grand National, the "World's Greatest Steeplechase", is run at Liverpool's Aintree course. Millions of people risk a quid or two on the race, and watch the proceedings anxiously on TV, where it's broadcast live and then repeated at least twice before the end of the day. The National is by far the most arduous (some would say cruel) race of the steeplechasing and hurdling season, which runs from August to April, with races taking place on Saturdays and midweek at a vast array of courses, ranging from ovals of grass in the depths of the countryside to prestigious venues like Windsor. Ticket prices range from £5 to £35.
The horses and the clientele are often more upmarket when it comes to racing on the flat, which is a summer sport, observing an April to October season. Whereas the big events in the steeplechasing season draw a broad-based crowd, the showcase races on the flat are largely about upper-crust networking. That said, thousands of Londoners treat themselves to a day out at Epsom on Derby Day, the first Saturday in June. The Derby, a mile-and-a-half race for 3-year-old thoroughbreds, is the most prestigious of the five classics of the flat season, and is preceded in the three-day Derby meeting by another classic, the Oaks, which is for fillies only - the other Classics are the 1000 Guineas, 2000 Guineas (both run at Newmarket) and the St Leger (run at Doncaster).
For sheer snobbery nothing can match the Royal Ascot week in mid-June, when the Queen and selected members of the royal family are in attendance, along with half the nation's blue bloods. As with the Derby, the best seats are the preserve of the gentry, but the rabble are allowed into the public enclosure for a mere £8-10, and can get considerably closer to the action for from £37-45, providing they dress smartly. Prices are slightly lower at the country's other flat-racing meetings, where the class divisions of British society are generally less glaring. Many of these meetings take place on courses used for steeplechasing in the winter, though some of the better courses - such as Goodwood - are reserved for the flat.
Betting
Most of the money spent by Britain's gamblers is blown on the horses, though only a small minority of punters actually go to the races. At the course itself you can place a bet with one of the independent trackside book-makers (or "tic-tac men" as they are known, from the bizarre sign language with which they signal the odds), or with the state-run Tote, a system by which the total money placed on a race is divided among the winners.
Competing with Tote and the small bookies are the representatives of the big nationwide betting organizations, such as Ladbrokes, Coral and William Hill, who make their money by taking bets on anything from the result of the 4.15 at Epsom to the name of the rider who will finish fourth in the Tour de France or the likelihood of snow at Christmas.
Anyone aged 18 or over can place a bet.
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