Golf in Scotland

Scotland and golf go together like, well, Scotland and golf!  Despite some half-hearted counterclaims from the Dutch and even the Chinese, it?s now generally accepted that it was the Scots who first developed the game, way back in the 1100s.  (The name 'golf' derives from the Dutch 'kolf', a club, but we?ll draw a convenient veil over that.)

At any rate, it was the Scots who took the idea, if not the ball, and ran with it until the sport became so popular that that it was thought to be a danger to national security!  In 1457, James II passed an Act of Parliament banning the game as an 'unprofitable sport' which should be 'utterly cryit doun and not usit.'  It seems that it was causing young men to neglect their archery practice.  The ban remained in force until repealed by James IV in 1502 - he was killed in the crushing defeat of the Scots by the English at Flodden some 11 years later. Could it be that perhaps his grandfather had a point?

Thereafter royalty and commoners alike continued to flog small spherical objects round mainly coastal scrubland areas until the first established playing course was set up in 1567 on the Old Links on Musselburgh Racecourse.  That area remains one of the foremost golfing districts in the world, with Muirfield, Archerfield and Luffness as three world famous courses within a radius of a few miles.

Golf is now played right across the world, often with something approaching religious fervour.  Yet the game in Scotland remains a unique experience, a world away from Japanese businessmen standing in tiers at their driving ranges belting balls into nets, the manicured and sun drenched Spanish teaching courses, and the sumptuous and exclusive American courses where no expense has been spared on their design and upkeep - it is different even from the pleasant golf clubs of England.  For in Scotland golf really has remained the game of the people.  So you may have to book months in advance and raise a small mortgage to play on the hallowed turf of the Royal and Ancient in St Andrews, the 'home of golf', but just about every town, almost every village in the surrounding county of Fife has its own often excellent golf course, where you neither have to book nor pay out a king?s ransom for the privilege and pleasure of playing there.

The same is true for most of Scotland, and those coming from abroad and even from south of the border never cease to be amazed by the low costs, the uncrowded fairways and, above all, the accessibility of the Scottish courses.  A nice little anecdote from one of the new prestigious East Lothian courses bears this out: the land for the course was leased by the Duke of Hamilton, but before granting the lease, His Grace insisted that the development could only go ahead on the understanding that the course should be open to all.

And so much choice!  Take the Borders, for instance.  You can play the Duke of Roxburghe's superb course at Sunlaws near Kelso, or equally enjoy a round on any one of the myriad courses round about, which have no shortage of character.  There is the 'Championship' course of the Royal Burgh of Lauder (pop. circa 3,000) for example, designed by two-times Open Champion Willie Park himself.  The course has some lovely views and presents some interesting challenges, not least because players share it on occasion with the local farmer's sheep.  (A length of rope surrounds the greens to stop their encroachment there ? you just step over it to putt.)

So many of the smaller courses prove to be real hidden gems, not least because of the friendliness of their welcome extends into the hospitality of the clubhouse, where many punch well above their weight.  Minto in the Borders, or St Fillans in Perthshire are typical in this respect, small country courses, far from towns, yet proudly maintained and offering delicious lunches after your round.

You will find courses the length and breadth of Scotland, in lovely situations both inland and (where it all began) on the coast.  It is no coincidence that so many Open venues are on Scottish coasts, Carnoustie, Muirfield, Turnberry, and, of course, St Andrews.  The most northerly course is right up in Durness, about as far as you can go in mainland Britain without falling off the end, where the views are breathtaking.  Or try the fiendish links at Rosemarkie on the Black Isle north of Inverness, sandwiched between the gorse and the sea and a test for everyone's mettle.  Non-playing party members are also well catered for - at the end of the course is Chanonry Point, hailed by many as the best place in the world to see dolphins as they pass through the narrows into the inner Sound.

Even an island holiday should not entail any withdrawal symptoms - (an island-hopping golfing holiday would be truly different!)  Arran has several excellent courses - the one at Blackwaterfoot is particularly challenging.  Islay has a superb course at Machrie, Skye has a good 9 hole course at Sconser and Mull has two, at Tobermory and Craignure.  There is a very attractive one on Harris in the Outer Hebrides and even Orkney turns up trumps with a course near Kirkwall.

Pack your golf clubs, then and come to Scotland.  You will not be disappointed.  And don't worry too much about the weather, for isn?t it a well-known fact that it never rains on a golf course?