Why do islands have such a magic quality? Is it because crossing water to get there tells us so clearly that we are leaving our everyday lives and problems behind? If this is the case then Eyre Point Cottage on Raasay will weave a double spell. The delights of Skye are well documented; lesser known Raasay is one of its tranquil satellites, accessible by a 15 minute ferry journey from Sconser on Skye, about 12 miles south of Portree.
Eyre Point Cottage occupies a glorious position on the south west coast of the island, about 1 mile south of the ferry terminal at Suishnish. Standing at the water's edge and reached by a well-tended drive with a sheep gate (which residents are requested to keep closed at all times), it looks out across the Sound of Raasay with breathtaking views of the Cuillins. The garden is enclosed, (principally as a defence against those marauding sheep!) and a small gate gives access to the shore, where there are boat landing facilities and a power point.
The cottage itself was constructed for the builder's own use and is very well insulated and cosy, with oil central heating and a log stove in the sitting room. There is an immersion heater for summer use. It has a large kitchen with separate utility/drying room and is extremely well appointed, with everything needed for a comfortable holiday.
Raasay itself is a paradise for nature lovers and bird watchers in particular. The island has three pairs of eagles and also receives passing visits from ospreys. Schools of porpoises can sometimes be seen in the Sound and even, on occasion, a whale. Keep an eye open and you may be rewarded with a glimpse of the Raasay vole, a tiny creature quite distinct from its Skye and mainland cousins.
There is fishing for brown trout in the lochans (permits obtainable at the hotel). The island has its own microclimate and work is shortly to begin on the gardens of Raasay House (currently in use as an outdoor centre) to restore them to their former glory. Snacks and light meals are available at the Centre from April-October. Botanists should look out for the lesser butterfly, early purple, green winged and spotted orchids, which all grow wild on the island.
The 'capital' of Raasay is Inverarish, a ten-minute drive from Eyre Point Cottage, where there is a hotel (bar meals) and a pub and an excellent traditional general store (unlicensed)/Post Office There is, however, no petrol on Raasay.
Despite the peace of the island today, it has a turbulent and bloody history. Ruined Brochel Castle at the north end was the lair of Calum Garbh MacLeod, a 16th century pirate who preyed on passing merchant ships. During the '45 Rebellion, Raasay's people sided with Bonnie Prince Charlie and 126 Raasay men fought at Culloden. They paid dearly for their allegiance when victorious government forces swept across the island, looting, raping and killing. And in the 19th century, it was the scene of some of the most vicious of the Highland Clearances.
But that was then, and now the island offers an idyllic retreat from the cares of the world. There are several good walks, including one to the oddly shaped hill of Dun Caan (on which Boswell and Dr Johnson danced while visiting the island in the 18th century!) in the centre of the island.
The Forestry Commission publishes a leaflet with details of suggested walks and forest trails. The island also currently boasts a number of excellent musicians among its inhabitants: visitors should look out for notices of ceilidhs and concerts in Raasay House.
The ferry crosses several times a day Monday-Saturday and there are now also crossings on Sundays. Bed-linen and towels are INCLUDED. Heating is by oil fired central heating and wood-burning stove is INCLUDED. No smoking within the cottage. Pets by arrangement.
Other self catering holiday cottages on Raasay -
Raasay Schoolhouse (slps 8/12)
