The Sound of Raasay separates the island of the same name from the east coast of Skye, and as soon as you roll off the ferry which plies back and forward between the two, you realise that you are in a world apart. Gone are the tourists and climbers who flock to 'mainland' Skye; Raasay has a completely different pace of life, tranquil and peaceful, and this is what awaits you when you come to Inverarish Cottage.
Inverarish is the only real settlement on Raasay, snuggled among woodlands just a mile or two from where the ferry makes landfall. It is a hamlet of little lanes and quiet roads, with one excellent general store and a hotel a little way to the north, beside the Outward Bound Centre.
The cottage is cosy and well-appointed, one of a small terrace of traditional dwellings which once housed the POWs who were sent there during First World War. It's doubtful if they'd recognise it now, so well has it been refurbished and modernised. While it only has a tiny garden of its own, there is a picnic area right opposite, which provides outside space in a delightful setting. There is also off-road parking for one car.
Relaxation is the order of the day on Raasay, but that most certainly does not mean that there is nothing to do. There is one road on the island which curls round the southern end. Where it peters out, you can continue on foot around the coast to some of the deserted settlements which date from when there was a much larger population than there is now. Among them is Hallaig, immortalised in verse by Sorley MacLean, who was a native of the island. The track runs high above the shore, and the views across to the Scottish mainland are quite breathtaking.
Lovers of flora and fauna will also find much to interest them here; rare orchids, birds of prey including golden eagles, otters, seals, and, at certain times, dolphins, whales and basking sharks can all be spotted. Look out too for the Raasay Vole, which is unique to the island.
The island is dominated by the curiously shaped, flat-topped extinct volcano Duncaan, atop which Dr Johnson and Boswell are reported to have danced during their Highland journey. It makes for a very good excursion now, as then.
A few miles to the north of Inverarish, the road used to peter out. But there was another village, Arnish, up there, and one of the villagers, Calum MacLeod, did not see why it should not be accessed by a proper road. When the Council refused to entertain the idea in the 1960s, he set to work and built it himself. By the time he was finished, he and his wife were Arnish's only remaining inhabitants. 'Calum's Road' is now famous as the subject of a recent book. At Inverarish Cottage, you will have the chance to see it, travel it for yourself and marvel at his achievement.
If the community on Raasay is small, it is also very vibrant, with lots of concerts and ceilidhs to which visitors are most welcome. Raasay House, round which many of these centre, is to be closed in 2008 for complete refurbishment, but a new community hall is due for completion in March 2008, so entertainments will doubtless continue there unabated. The hotel serves lunches and evening meals (opening hours restricted during winter months and the bar is not open to non-residents on Sundays.)
The small car ferry makes the 15 minute crossing to Skye several times a day, and books of tickets for more frequent journeys are available. Click here to view ferry times.
Heating is by two fires in the kitchen and living room and by electric heaters payable by token. Bag of coal and 2 x £5 tokens for electricity are INCLUDED in the rental. (Further tokens available from the shop.) Bed linen is INCLUDED and towels may be hired. One well-behaved pet is welcome by arrangement.
